A Primer on Texas Wine (and Our Favorite Texas Wineries)
There are many polarizing aspects of Texas; between the politics, the heat, and the ridiculous distances between cities, there’s no shortage of things which generate strong opinions in the Lone Star State. For us as avid wine drinkers, however, one stands out: the wine.
For anyone unfamiliar, Texas wine has a certain reputation among vinophiles. Just like stereotypes about Texas itself, many of the wines produced here tend to be brash and bombastic; a decent number of people here like to drink big-bodied Cab Sauv even in triple digit weather, so it stands to reason that local producers know their audience and are happy to oblige. And we have to admit that there’s some truth behind this perception. If you make the trek out to Johnson City or Fredericksburg, there’s a decent chance any of the establishments you stop at serves you wine which could charitably be described as unique. That said, if you know where to look, several local wineries have honed in on truly good wine, learning to work with what each growing season gives them year by year.
This is no easy feat. It took many of the premier wine-growing regions of Europe hundreds, if not thousands, of years to dial in their processes to achieve the constant, world-class results that we find in our glasses today. Despite Texas having a surprisingly long wine history, with roots going back to Spanish conquistadors and missionaries, it wasn’t until the 1970s that anyone contemplated wine production here at larger scales. Any historical wine industry that did exist in Texas was nearly eradicated by Prohibition, and unlike California, a post-Prohibition resurgence has taken hold much more slowly (and recently), explaining why Texas winemakers are in many ways still establishing themselves.
History aside, the Texas landscape itself poses additional challenges to quality winemaking. With summer temperatures regularly climbing into the triple digits but unpredictable cold flashes possible in both late spring and early fall, not to mention high winds, hail, and the ever-looming threat of droughts, Texas winemakers constantly face adverse growing conditions which their peers in more temperate climes largely avoid.
All of this is to stay: there are foundational reasons why Texas wines differ from those made in France, or even California. But that’s not to say there aren’t great Texas wineries. What follows is just a handful of the ones that we think do an excellent job at transcending these historical and geographical challenges to create delicious wines.
Our favorite (and the one to which at least one of us has a membership, full disclosure) is Slate Theory. Without fail, every time we visit the Hill Country, we have to make a stop at Slate, and everyone we’ve ever taken there has always left happy. And it’s easy to see why: Slate Theory is the natural winery that does a little bit of everything, from crisp white wines (a rarity in the Texas scene) to rosés and reds, they cover the full spectrum for almost every palate. While they’re not always conventional (and their space, with its nods to psychology concepts and dark humor, certainly isn’t), the quality of their product can’t be denied.
For anyone craving a bit of Napa but consigned to Texas, we suggest William Chris. One of the first local operations to truly put Texas on the map for wine, this winery produces some of the best-structured wines in the state, with a beautiful venue and knowledgeable staff. Their offerings tend toward red wines in true Texas fashion, but we’ve been delighted to see their offerings expand in recent years, with a few whites and even a rosé pet-nat entering the mix.
On the other side of the equation, for anyone wishing they were in the Rhône, French Connection is our go-to Hill Country winery for a slice of the French Riviera (beach not included). Having wisely embraced the reality that Texas is an extremely sun-drenched growing region, the winemakers of French Connection specialize in adapting grapes from another sunny locale, the south of France, to Texas terroir. With multiple reds and whites to choose from, this is a great choice for anyone who wants more than just big red wine.
Calais is another great winery for anyone with an affinity for Old World approaches to wine, in this case choosing to emulate Bordeaux. Given these Bordeaux leanings, Calais resembles William Chris in the sense that those preferring non-red wines won’t have much to choose from. Even so, the wines they do have on offer are impeccable, crafted by owner-winemaker Benjamin Calais with a deft blend of appreciation for French tradition and an embrace of the Texas landscape.
This is by no means an exhaustive list. Every year, new winemakers set out to practice their craft here in Texas, both in the Hill Country and in the High Plains (where most of the grapes in Texas are grown, contrary to popular belief). Although climate change is complicating things, we’re confident that with the influx of new oenology talent we see each year to our state, the wine scene here will only continue to improve; in the meantime, we encourage you to to dig deep in your wine knowledge to find and support local wineries which truly speak to you.
